I knew I was going to have wind problems. I had a stiff headwind all the way from home to my first destination, a state park. And it was hot. So I was feeling great joy when I rolled up to the check in kiosk.
I parked my bike and went inside. The little check in area was exceptionally busy. I finally got to the front of the line. The ranger gave me a big smile. "OK. Got you in the area you wanted." Behind me I heard even more people filling the little room. A couple of little kids were not happy campers. "Listen, I can go drop my stuff at the site and come back in a bit to finish checking in," I said, trying to be helpful. She said that would be great, and I left her to deal with the crowd.
I headed into the park and down some footpaths to the hidden area that held some group and primitive campsites. Only it wasn't quiet like usual. I headed to the smallest group site, the one I was supposed to use. At a nearby large group site I saw a swarm of rowdy boys and a couple of adults attempting to organize the rambunctious group. I parked my bike. The adults pivoted toward me. Big smiles. They strode over and introduced themselves. The boys, it seemed, were 5th graders having an exciting adventure. The adults professed their delight in having me there. I was quickly invited to join their little group. "The boys would love to see your bike and learn all about what you're doing," they said with great enthusiasm.
I felt my eyes narrow somewhat as I scanned the milling young campers. "Sure," I replied with as neutral but polite a tone as I could muster. (Wasn't gonna happen.) "Well, got some things to do before I settle in," I said as I remounted my bike and gave them my best smile and a little wave. And I pedaled back to the check in kiosk.
I took the horde of 5th graders to be a divine sign that I should find a motel for the night. The ranger cancelled out my camping paperwork, nodding and saying she understood. I pedaled away.
Now I'm a huge fan of the older tourist motels that line the Overseas Highway. I have favorites. Pedal, pedal, pedal. I stopped at a couple, trying to negotiate rates. (It is still the season, after all, and prices are sky high.) Finally I rolled into a place I really love. They had several vacancies, all cottages designed for families. But they had one small unit, and we were able to negotiate a price that was quite reasonable. It was a vintage RV, set on a kitschy foundation. The interior had been attractively remodeled to make it a cute little cottage.
I settled in, went to the office for a kayak paddle, and headed to the beach. I didn't bother with a swimsuit, my bike kit would do just fine. I spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out with a bunch of Canadian tourists who were using the kayaks and paddle boards. As I walked back to the office with one of the Canadians, both of us carrying our paddles, a woman passed us. "How was the water?" she asked. "Wet," we replied in unison and laughed.
I loved my little RV. It was spacious and comfortable, a nice base for biking the area. But it was time to move on to my next destination. I fired up the weather app on my phone. Bad news. A front was rolling through. There was a line of serious rain. Followed by a wind shift, a big increase in wind, and a big drop in temperature. I made two plans, then went to bed. I'd go with the plan that seemed the most sensible in the morning.
In the morning I packed the bike and moved it to the big tiki hut that serves as the coffee/breakfast/TV area for the motel. There I met two couples who had their boats moored nearby. We huddled over the weather. There was a bit over an hour before a fast moving line of heavy rain rolled through. Then there was about a 1 1/2 to 2 hour window where I could have a big tailwind if I headed back toward Miami. (After that the wind shifted and became a headwind.) Then the wind really kicked up in the Keys. The boaters gathered their things and headed to their boats. I settled in with coffee and TV and waited for the rain to come and go. (It poured.) I had decided to head back to Miami.
When the rain stopped, I pointed the bike toward home, really enjoying the tailwind. Right on schedule, the wind shifted from a tailwind to a headwind. Bummer.
When I finally got home, I realized I had not taken a real stop on the whole trip home. I straddled the bike for snack breaks. I was wearing my 3 liter camelback so I never stopped for water. I even had an espresso, thanks to a Starbucks canned espresso from my handlebar bag, sipped while straddling the bike on a snack break. Final fun fact: (drumroll, please) it was my longest ride of the year on my slow fat tire bike.
Not the trip I had planned. Not what I was expecting. But I had a wonderful time.
And I can't wait to do it again.
